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Panorama of Matlock* |
| Eighteenth and nineteenth century tour guides about Matlock Bath and Matlock |
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Museum, Caverns &c.
The Devonshire Cavern pp.12-20
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ROYAL MUSEUM. |
AMUSING myself in front of the Old Bath, (the hotel which I had chosen
for my residence), and occasionally contemplating the beautiful scenery
within view; I was particularly struck with a pile of building below.
On descending to satisfy my curiosity, I passed the Saloon, or Circulating
Library, which was then crowded with elegant company, and arrived
at the object that had engaged my attention; which proved to be the
MUSEUM, a place of attraction, forming the general rendezvous of Matlock
: here I was agreeably surprised to meet with many of my acquaintance,
of whose arrival I was not as yet aware, and who expressed the same
feeling toward me on our mutual recognition. Perhaps one of the greatest
charms attending an excursion to these frequented places of resort,
is the fortuitous reunion, the accidental meeting of friends, who
had supposed each other at a great distance, and separated for a considerable
length of time*.
THE MUSEUM is under the patronage of His Grace the Duke of Devonshire,
and enjoys also that of the
[footnote on page 12]
*I suggested to the Proprietor of the Museum to keep a Book of Arrivals.
Duke of Rutland and was honoured by visits from the Duke of York when
that lamented prince was in Derbyshire.
IT was here that I found the most curious and interesting productions
of the country, in specimens of the spar* manufactured into vases
of exquisite form and design copied from the Antique; also models
of Egyptian obelisks and columns engraved in a superior manner, with
great accuracy, from the originals on black marble of the choicest
quality.
THE Proprietor imports a great variety of fine alabaster, in vases,,
&c, from Florence; also marble statues from various parts
of Italy, which greatly contribute to enhance the attractions of this
establishment. The Vases
[footnote on page 13]
*I feel gratified in being able to add to this brief description,
the following notice from a little work written by Mr. Moore: "
The Museum
" occupies the centre of tile Parade; the room is spacious, and
the ad-
" mission is free. The amethystine fluor spar, and tile marble
orna-
" ments are very beautiful; minerals, shells, and other articles
of na-
" tural history, are also kept here, which render it an agreeable
and
" very interesting lounge."
The Italian alabaster is beautifully white, and does not change
colour.
of black marble, the Obelisks, Sarcophagi, Cenotaphs, &c. are
closely copied from the originals, and are far superior in workmanship
to any now made in Italy.
IN the heat of the day; or in rainy weather, I found the Museum to
be the centre of general resort. It was here; while on a visit to
a gentleman in the neighbourhood, that I was introduced to the illustrious
personage who is now Emperor of Russia, also to the Archdukes John
and Louis of Austria, who were delighted with this well stored and
interesting depository. While noticing this place, I consider it a
duty to say more of it than, as a mere lounger I otherwise should,
in consideration of the great civility and general information I received
from the attendants.
THE Mineralogical Establishment consists of a fine collection of minerals,
particularly those of the county; also a complete series of geological
specimens; both of which classes of substances are in such request,
that few .persons visit Matlock who do not avail themselves of the
opportunity of taking from this place a portion of its varied stores.
I HAVE often thought that Matlock would be a most
covenient and eligible resort for the study of mineralogy and practical
mining; I was also much gratified to find that during a short visit
here, the Proprietor devoted one hour every morning in making experiments
on the minerals, exhibiting the forms of their crystallization, and
giving information on the geology of Derbyshire.
To enjoy the walks about Matlock, requires some vigorous exertion,
there being so many hills to climb, mines to visit, and caverns to
explore. The country is viewed to the greatest advantage from the
heights, whence the extent of prospect may be truly called sublime,
the valley forming a panoramic scene at once enchanting and delightful.
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CAVERNS &c. |
'THE visitors of Matlock, who make any considerable stay, usually
form parties and visit the undermentioned places:
The Devonshire Cavern, and Botanic Garden.
The Fluor Cavern; and Dungeon Rocks.
The Cumberland Cavern.
The Rutland Cavern.
The Petrifying Wells.
THE Mine belonging to the Proprietor of the Museum is not more than
two hundred yards distant, and is entered from the turnpike road:
being particularly easy of access, no hill to mount, it is much visited.
It exhibits a vein of lead ore, the manner of working which is pointed
out by the guide, if the miners should happen to be absent.
THE Grotto across the river, which is a mine at the foot of the High
Tor, is the most interesting of all the caverns, the roof and sides
being lined with spar.
THERE are two Petrifying Wells, in which, if birds' nests, twigs,
baskets, or bones, be placed for the space of two years, they will
become encrusted with a calcareous deposit, or, according to the term
used at Matlock, petrified.
Rationale.-The water filtering through a stratum of tuffa,
drops from the roof and sides, and, losing a part of its carbonic
air, precipitates earthy particles upon the substance on which it
falls.
DEVONSHIRE CAVERN.
OF the wonders here enumerated, we shall first notice the Devonshire
Cavern, which was discovered about four years ago, and so named in
honour of the Duke. It is visited by every curious resident; and on
comparison with the others, is greatly preferred, being a natural
cavern, and of very great extent, and presenting an infinite number
of "water-icicles, " (a most appropriate local term),
some of which line the sides, and others are pendant from the roof.
ANOTHER reason for this preference is, that when visitors have reached
the farther end, and begin to think on the unwelcome task of retracing
their steps, they are surprised and gratified to perceive that daylight
waits their farther advance; and, on attaining a considerable elevation,
they find themselves in the open atmosphere, near the airy summit
of one of the highest mountains in the vicinity of Matlock*. The delight
inspired by this
[footnote on page 17]
* A nobleman visited this cavern, attended by his physician, who pro-
[see bottom of page 18]
sudden transition from subterranean darkness to the light of the mountain's
brow, might have called forth from such a bard as Lord Byron one of
those impassioned bursts of poetry with which his Childe Harold hails
the dawn of morning on the Alps.
FROM this eminence are various footpaths leading to picturesque and
romantic views. The guide will conduct you to the mining village of
Bonsall or to Cromford; or, descending by the contrary road, and passing
by the old Nestor mine, now called the Rutland Cavern, will lead you
through a succession of beautiful scenery, to the margin of the Derwent,
at the base of the High Tor.
THE mountains of this interesting range are limestone, and considered
to be of the first floetz formation. They arc full of marine exuviæ,
and exhibit every appearance of marine deposit. The limestone stratum
alternates with a substance here called Toad-stone. The neighbouring
scenery, for a mile each way, may be called
[footnote on page 18 - continued from previous
page]
nounced it to be the most healthful, from its free circulation of
air; those caverns which have only one opening being subject to noxious
malaria.
unique, and affords one of the finest walks that can be imagined after
the heat of the day.
THE rapid stream of the Derwent is here diverted from its channel
to turn a wheel, which, in connexion with other machinery, is employed
to pump the water from a mine four hundred yards distant, to which
there is a subterraneous passage, gallery, sough, or level.
CONTINUING along the riverside, fresh scenery occurs; and, after proceeding
a short distance, the spectator discerns the humble cottage of PHBE;
a little farther from which is seen a beautiful modern villa, adorned
with great taste, and appearing more remarkable by the force of contrast.
RETURNING to Matlock Bath, we find, near the Museum, a good inn called
the HOTEL, at which a coach from Manchester stops every morning at
ten; and another from Manchester to Derby and Nottingham calls at
noon, daily. Various vehicles go and return from Matlock to Derby
three or four times a-week, and at some seasons more frequently. Letters
from London to Matlock arrive on the day after being sent,
at three in the
afternoon; but letters to London from Matlock, do not arrive
at the Metropolis until the second day after being expedited.
WE shall now proceed to enumerate the
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RIDES AND EXCURSIONS |
ROUND MATLOCK, NOT EXCEEDING THE DISTANCE OF ONE POST.
[Page 20 is continued]
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*Transcribed by Ann Andrews in March 2004 from:
"The Panorama of Matlock and Its Environs; With the Tour of
the Peak", by H. Barker, Esq. (1827), published by Longman
& Co., London. From the copy held at Derby
Local Studies Library (ref DLSL 143) and published here with the
librarian's very kind permission. Also very grateful thanks to Jane
Steer for generously providing copies and all her help and interest
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