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Breeds
The picture shows the type of horse or (on a smaller scale) pony conventionally described as a Hunter. These are normally produced by crossing a Thoroughbred with a mare or sire having a considerable amount of Draught horse/pony blood (genes). BUT almost any type of horse or pony can make a good Hunter. Temperament and natural ability are more important than breeding. But it is important to match the horse or pony to the ability and temperament of the rider.
Ambitious riders, who wish to be in the front rank of the chase
For these intrepid souls it is vital to match the horse to the type of Hunting Country. For instance for the high wide hedges with broad ditches found in, e.g. the Blackmore Vale and the Berkeley, you should ride a fast horse that attacks fences and jumps out long. For banks you need a clever steady mount who will hop up off his hocks and be prepared to hesitate at the top to jump down at an angle or even to walk along the bank until he can slide down on his backside with his legs tucked up. For timber (without a ditch on the take off side "towards") you need to be able to "bury" your horse at the ground line and have him spring up in the manner of a show jumper. When there is a ditch or wire "oxer" towards (strand of wire some way out from the fence) you need a clever bold horse, not afraid to reach for his fences. For watercourses, such as the dreaded rhines of the Berkeley and "arms of the sea" of the Meath you need a very bold fast horse if you are mad enough to contemplate jumping bank to bank or, if less incautious, you need a steady horse not afraid of water capable of the upside down version of negotiating a bank. For walls you need a horse like a timber jumper but bolder.
In my experience several children are among the front runners and do best on scaled down versions of the type that would best suit an adult of similar temperament in a similar hunting country.
Beginners
The beginner is put off if mounted on a horse or pony that pulls strongly. Unfortunately, many with sweet mouths hacking or even show jumping change completely when out hunting in what is their natural environment of a herd. It is impossible to tell how a horse or pony will behave in the Hunting Field until it has been tried there and when fit. When buying a Hunter or Hunting Pony for a novice you should insist on a trial in the Hunting Field first.
My experiences
I have had thoroughbreds and those with doses of Irish Draught which have been excellent natural jumpers of hedges with ditches while also being calm in the Hunting Field. However, several Half Irish Draughts and Thoroughbreds, that I have owned, have had to be taught to jump timber well. But both breeds can be good natural jumpers of timber, perhaps it was my horsemanship! I have had European Breeds (Warmbloods, Hanoverians etc.) of various sorts which have been good natural timber jumpers but prone to excitement when in the "herd". However, these have been the basis of well behaved Hunters when they have been crossed with a measure of the genes of "draught" breeds (those bred originally to draw vehicles or farm machinery) . However, most have learned to respect hedges after sufficient experience (often painful). My best "bankers" have all been half Irish Draught or equivalent English horses with a good infusion of draught horse blood. These have often also been good natural timber jumpers.
My best ponies were all "English Natives" ; Exmoors, Dartmoors and Welsh are the best that I remember.
Ages
Leave horses and ponies of 5 and under to the professionals. Remember that large horses (say 16:3 and over) do not mature until 8, particularly European Breeds.
Many Hunters perform well at 20!
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