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Peter Brears
512 pp; 246 x 174 mm; 74 b&w illustrations; hardback
ISBN 978-1-0903018-55-2 £30 |
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The history of medieval food and cookery has received a
fair amount of attention from the point of view of recipes (of which many
survive)and of the general context of feasts and feasting. It has never,
as yet, been studied with an eye to the real mechanics of food production
and service: the equipment used, the household organisation, the
architectural arrangements for kitchens, store-rooms, pantries, larders,
cellars, and domestic administration. This new work by Peter Brears,
perhaps Britain’s foremost expert on the historical kitchen, looks at
these important elements of cooking and dining. He also subjects the many
surviving documents relating to food service – household ordinances,
regulations and commentaries – to critical study in an attempt to
reconstruct the precise rituals and customs of dinner.
An underlying intention is to rehabilitate the medieval Englishman as
someone with a nice appreciation of food and cookery, decent manners, and
a delicate sense of propriety and seemliness. To dispel the myth, that is,
of medieval feasting as an orgy of gluttony and bad manners, usually
provided with meat that has gone slightly off, masked by liberal additions
of heady spices.
A series of chapters looks at the cooking departments in large
households:the counting house, dairy, brewhouse, pastry, boiling house and
kitchen. These are illustrated by architectural perspectives of surviving
examples in castles and manor houses throughout the land. Then there are
chapters dealing with the various sorts of kitchen equipment: fires, fuel,
pots and pans. Sections are then devoted to recipes and types of food
cooked. The recipes are those which have been used and tested by Peter
Brears in hundreds of demonstrations to the public and cooking for museum
displays. Finally there are chapters on the service of dinner (the service
departments including the buttery, pantry and ewery) and the rituals that
grew up around these. Here, Peter Brears has drawn a wonderful strip
cartoon of the serving of a great feast (the washing of hands, the
delivery of napery, the tasting for poison, etc.) which will be of
permanent utility to historical re-enactors who wish to get their details
right.
Peter Brears was formerly director of the museums at York and Leeds and
has worked all his life in the field of domestic history. He has written
extensively on traditional foods and cookery in Yorkshire, as well as a
groundbreaking illustrated catalogue of domestic and farmhouse materials
in Torquay Museum. He supervised the reconstruction of several important
historical kitchens, including those at Hampton Court, Ham House, Cowdray
Castle and Belvoir Castle.
Readership: academic; general; those interested in the history of food
and cookery. |
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