 |
John Evelyn
Edited by Christopher Driver
with an introduction by Tom Jaine
130pp; 205x145mm; paperback
ISBN 1903018293 £12.00 |
|
First published in 1699, John Evelyn's Acetaria is an early
book about food, rather than just a collection of recipes or a medical
treatise - the usual forms. He discusses with immense bravura and polymathy
the merits of salad, the demerits of meat-eating, the best way to mix,
to grow, to gather and to season a salad, and the place of the salad in
classical literature and the early history of man. What better introduction
to eating more vegetables, or growing more salad plants? John Evelyn (1620-1706)
was a virtuoso, scholar and man of letters of Restoration England. His
diary is required reading, his architectural and environmental treatises
were prophetic, and his gardening was legendary. Acetaria is one of its
fruits. It has pleased generations of readers. This is a new setting of
his text, with a useful introduction putting some contemporary perspectives
on his opinions, together with a full index and glossary.
The late Christopher Driver wrote much about food and its history,
particularly his British at Table. He also edited John Evelyn's culinary
manuscript notebook - published by Prospect Books as John Evelyn, Cook.
The late Christopher Driver was one of Britain's first food historians
and food journalists. |
|
CONTENTS
Foreword
Introduction
John Evelyn's Table of Salad Plants
The Dedication
The Preface
The Plan of a Royal Garden
Errata
ACETARIA
Appendix of Recipes
TheTable
Index & Glossary |
|
FOREWORD
As I look at the nine volumes of the diary of Samuel Pepys, and the
five of John Evelyn's, both superbly indexed in our own time, I question
how we could see or hear the period better: King Charles's execution and
the decade of the Commonwealth; the Restoration and his son's numerous
whores, created duchesses; the Royal Society, architecture and the beginnings
of the Enlightenment; and not least, the food and drink, and domestic manners,
of a generation of Londoners. Neither diarist would have thought the small
details of their lives so imperishable after three centuries.
In beginning a short sequence of John Evelyn's own writings on matters
of food and the garden, how better to give it impetus than by re-issuing
Acetaria? It encapsulates Evelyn's ability to invest the everyday
with an apparently insupportable burden of classical allusion and scholarship.
Yet given a short moment of absorption and contemplation, his arguments
are seductive and provoking, and his instructions clear - and well founded
in practice and experience.
Just how well founded will be the more obvious when the next volume
in this series is published. John Evelyn, Cook is a transcript of
his manuscript recipe book, which contains the originals of many of the
recipes contained in the Appendix to Acetaria.
|