Honey From a Weed
Patience Gray
Fasting and Feasting in Tuscany, Catalonia, the Cyclades and Apulia
375 pp; 120 drawings; paperback
Pbk
ISBN 190301820X £17.99
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Fish, Shellfish, Crustaceans
SOGLIOLA (I) • sole
Solea vulgaris • family SOLEIDAE
Ilenguado • (C) glóssa (G)
SOGLIOLA AL VINO BIANCO CON UVA MOSCATA
sole in white wine with muscat grapes
One likes to make the best of materials to hand, in this case small
soles fished from the Tyrrhenian, dry white wine and muscat grapes from
the vineyard at La Barozza. One sole per person and 30 g (1 oz) of butter
per fish. The grapes are peeled and pipped, a handful; salt and pepper.
Cut the heads off the fish, a slanting cut, clean them and strip off the
skin from both sides by raising it a little where the head is severed with
a sharp knife, and using a swift tearing movement - quite easy if you grasp
the sole with a cloth. Leave on the lateral fins; their gelatinous nature
contributes to the sauce. Sprinkle the soles with salt and pepper and put
them in a sole pan with the butter and wine, about 1/4 litre for 4 small
soles. Simmer on a lively heat, basting them by tilting the handle of the
pan while the liquor evaporates. Add the grapes. At a certain moment the
wine, the butter and the juices of the soles unite into the consistency
of a perfect sauce. Culinary miracles happen by evaporation. Serve at once.
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