The Saiq plateau (XB23) of the Jebel Akhdar range lies at an average altitude of just over 2000 m. I have visited the area twice, first in December 1993 and January 1994 and again in March 2002 and can provide an indication of the birds occurring there from my own and the ABBA database records. It is not the highest point of northern Oman, Jebel Shams further west rises to the over 3000m, but as a highland plateau in south-east Arabia it is unique. On first sight it appears not very interesting but on closer inspection of the wadis which run through it, one discovers diverse habitats with such unusual elements as groves of walnut trees, almond and apricot orchards, stream side willow trees. Mulberry trees have also been reported although I have not seen them. Roses are grown extensively for the local production of rose water. Bani Habib village is a good centre to explore such habitats. These highlands are also an area of human scenery. Some villages appear to be glued to sheer cliff faces and everywhere rustic stone built houses merge almost invisibly with the base rocks. Terraces, which have taken generations of human toil to construct, have vegetable crops climbing up the hillside wherever there is a source of permanent water.

Until relatively recently the plateau was difficult to get to. Not so long ago the only way in was by donkey or helicopter but a track bulldozed through has meant access by 4WD vehicles. In spring 2002 a permit to visit the plateau was still needed from the military who maintain a camp there. At that time access was being made very much easier by the construction of an asphalt road to the summit where there is now a hotel for those who do not wish to camp. (The hotel will arrange your permit if you stay there).

The plateau has a number of villages hidden in wadis but the village of Saiq sits on the plain. Apart from the ancient cultivated areas the plateau has a number of bird habitats that can be explored. In the summit areas there are many ancient juniper trees as well as huge old wild olive trees. There is a rubbish dump at the southern end of the plateau that should be sought out and there are a few small dams with reservoir ponds that attract birds. On the east side of the plateau where the altitude rises to about 2400m there is an almost sheer drop of a kilometre to the Gubrah bowl, creating one of the most impressive views in Arabia, often with banks of clouds well below the viewer. The plateau also offers opportunities to visit lower sites that cannot be easily reached from below. For example there is a graded track down to Masirat ar Ruajih a village at about 1000m in the headwaters of the Wadi Muaydin, which cannot be driven to up the wadi. There are plenty of opportunities to camp on the plateau but make sure you have a good sleeping bag in the winter months as it gets cold at night.

The resident bird specialities of the Saiq plateau are wood pigeon Columba palumbus and Arabian red-legged partridge Alectoris melanocephala. You will not be guaranteed seeing either of course as both are elusive. Both are probably more often heard than seen. Grey francolin Francolinus pondicerianus now occur on the plateau but the sand partridge is more likely to seen on the dry slopes when driving up. Other specialities often regarded as highland birds in Arabia are Hume's chat Oenanthe alboniger and long billed pipit Anthus similis which can be quite common or infuriatingly scarce (depending on whether you want to see them or not), striated scops owl Otus brucei and little owl Athene noctua. More regular species are Arabian babbler Turdoides squamiceps, desert lark Ammomanes deserti, pale crag martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula , scrub warbler Scotocerca inquieta, brown-necked raven Corvus ruficollis, yellow-vented bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos (in July 2002 a red-vented bulbul P. cafer was also present), palm dove Streptopelia senegalensis, house sparrow Passer domesticus and great grey shrike Lanius excubitor. Raptor residents include kestrel Falco tinnunculus, Egyptian vulture Neophron pernopterus and the lappet-faced vulture Torgos tracheliotus often puts in an appearances and presumably nests on the mountain somewhere. On the drier lower slopes rock doves Columba livia and house buntings Emberiza striolata are likely to be found. A number of species are only found on the plateau as summer visitors, including the Indian sunbird Nectarinia asiatica and European bee-eater Merops apiaster. The plateau is also potentially a site for the breeding of temperate species normally breeding much further north. For example the isabelline shrike Lanius isabellinus has been suspected of breeding here (Phoenix 17:12). Winter visitors attracted to the varied habitats on the plateau include red-tailed wheatear Oenanthe xanthoprymna (common), plain leaf warbler Phylloscopus neglectus (sometimes quite common), tawny pipit Anthus campestris, black redstart Phoenicurus ochruros, desert lesser whitethroat Sylvia minula, grey wagtail Motacilla cinerea, blue rock thrush Monticola solitarius and steppe eagle Aquila nipalensis. This is also one of the few places in Oman that wintering siskin Carduelis spinus have been seen. Wetland birds are understandably scarce even on migration but common snipe Gallinago gallinago have occurred at the ponds in spring.

The Jebel Akhdar hotel (Email - jakhotel@omantel.net.om) is quiet but comfortable with modern furnished rooms and a restaurant with a limited menu. They will provide a sketch map of the area and footpaths to help you find your way around.